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Vietnam
> Hanoi |
HA NOI
Hanoi,
Vietnam's capital, lies on the banks of the Red River, some 100 kilometres from its mouth.
Human settlements at the place date back as far as
the 3rd century B.C. In 1010 Hanoi, at that time known by the name of Thang Long, became
capital of the first Vietnamese dynasty independent from the Chinese. The city received
its present name, Hanoi, only in 1831. However, at that time not Hanoi but Hué was the
capital of the Vietnamese empire. In 1882 Hanoi was conquered by a French expedition. In
1883 France forced the then uncolonialized North of the Vietnamese empire to accept the
status of a French protectorate. The French administratively divided the country into the
colony Cochin China (in the South) and the protectorates Annam (central Vietnam) and
Tonkin (North Vietnam). Hanoi became the capital of the protectorate Tonkin. Vast parts of
present-day Hanoi were built during the French colonial occupation. With its broad
boulevards and a French-inspired architecture the city has a noticeable structural charm.
The French abandoned Hanoi after their defeat at Dien Bien Phu and the division of Vietnam
into two separate states according to the Geneva Treaty signed on July 20, 1954. Ho Chi
Minh made Hanoi the capital of North Vietnam and initially concentrated on the expansion
of the city's industry. During the US bombardments of North Vietnam from March 1965 to
October 1968 the authorities evacuated 75 % of Hanoi's population. After the end of the
bombardments the city again grew rapidly. Today the population of Hanoi counts more than 3
million. Nevertheless, the city does not seem as crowded as Ho Chi Minh City, the former
Saigon. And even though Hanoi is the political capital of the country, Ho Chi Minh City
definitely is ahead economically.
Hoan Kiem Lake
Hoan
Kiem Lake, Lake of the Restored Sword, forms the center piece of Hanoi. The name of the
lake originates from a legend. Emperor Le Loi, worried
about advancing Chinese, was boating on the lake when a giant tortoise rose from the murky
waters. The tortoise presented him with a magical sword with which he could strike down
all foes. The tortoise made Le Loi promise to bring back the sword upon the defeat of the
Chinese. The tortoise rose again to take back the sword following the success of Le
Loi’s campaign, and since then the lakes has been known as the Lake of the Restored
Sword. A solitary pagoda on an islet to the west side of the lake has been built in the
tortoise’s honor.The pleasant surroundings of the lake make for a perfect break to
much out on a baguette or finish off a book. There are park benches all around the lake,
though the east side is nicer and slightly quieter. Around sunset it is difficult of find
a free seat as young couples congregate to spend tome in each others arms. There is also a
plethora of shoe shiners and food vendors here, but be warned, some of the cute children
selling postcards have very light fingers so watch your pockets at all times around this
lake. Early in the morning the lakeside is a popular venue for Tai Chi and exercise.At the
northern end of the lake is Ngoc Son Pagoda, or pagoda of the jade mountain, located on
Jade Island. The access to the island is by an old red wooden bridge, the Bridge of the
Rising Sun. Built during the 19th century, this pagoda honors Van Xuong, the
spirit of the intellectuals, and Tran Hung Dao as well as others. At the entrance to the
bridge there are two monuments constructed in 1864, one representing an ink brush (a tower
of 9m tall) and the other an inkwell (a hollow rock held by tree frogs). In the early
morning of the festival of Doan Ngo, held on the fifth day of the fifth month, the shadow
of the brush is positioned at the center of the inkwell. The pagoda is a great place to
escape the chaos of the Hanoi streets.
West Lake
Also
known as Ho Tay or the Lake of Mist, this large lake covers an area of 5km squared on the
northwest side of Hanoi. Legend states that the lake was formed by the foot print of a
golden calf who was running towards the sound of a giant bell. In its heyday, the lake was
lined by royal palaces, however, there is little indication of them today as they were
destroyed by the numerous wars ravaging the are. West Lake is being transformed again and
is undergoing construction of some of the most luxurious development to take place in
Hanoi.
Ho Chi Minh 's Mausoleum
The
number one sight of Hanoi would have to be checking in on Uncle Ho. Ho Chi Minh’s
body is kept in state in a huge mausoleum at Ba Dinh Square, on Hung Vuong Street past the
end of Dien Bien Phu Street. At the entrance to the mausoleum is Ho Chi Minh’s quote:
" Nothing is more precious than independence and freedom".There are a number of
rules and regulations in regard to seeing Uncle Ho. You will not be admitted wearing
shorts, no cameras or bags are allowed, you cannot put your hands into your pockets and
you must retain a respectful air about you. Visitors are marched through in pairs in a
militaristic fashion past Ho Chi Minh’s body that is held in a glass case, then
whisked out of the mausoleum before you can say boo. After the mausoleum the tour
continues to Ho Chi Minh’s house that has a large collection of interesting relics
from his past.
Ho Chi Minh 's Museum
This
museum beside Uncle Ho’s Mausoleum contains an all encompassing look at Vietnam with
displays on both its past and future. Each display holds a message of communist theology,
but much of the writing is in Vietnamese. The ground floor has a collection of displays on
everything from Vietnamese technical innovations to crop productivity charts. The first
floor traces the life of Ho Chi Minh through a fascinating sequence of newspaper lippings
and photograghs. Some may find some of the sculpture representing Uncle Ho’s life a
bit way out, but it does serve to create an invigorating atmosphere.
One Pillar Pagoda
One
Pillar Pagoda (Chua Mot Cot) was built by the Emperor Ly Thai Tong, who ruled from 1028 to
1054. According to the annals, the hairless emperor dreamed that he had met Quan The Am Bo
Tat (Goddess of Mercy), who, while seated on a lotus flower, handed him a male child. Ly
Thai Tong then married a young peasant girl he met by chance and had a son and heir by
her. To express his gratitude for this event, he constructed the One Pillar Pagoda in
1049. The One Pillar Pagoda, built of wood on a single stone pillar 1.25m indiameter, is
designed to resemble a lotus blossom, symbol of purity, risingout of a sea of sorrow. One
of the last acts of the French before quitting Hanoi in 1954 was to destroy the One Pillar
Pagoda; the structure was built by the new government.
Temple
of Literature
During
the French occupation, the Temple of Literature, or Van Mieu, was known as Pagoda Des
Corbeau meaning Pagoda of the Crows. This was due to the large number of crows gathering
in the nearby mango trees. The temple makes for a good break from the overdose of war you
can receive in Hanoi. The complex, is in somewhat rundown condition, but apparently AMEX
is helping with the renovations via the US - Vietnam Reconciliations Programme (perhaps
this explains the high entrance fee of 6,000d). Regardless, the temple makes for an
interesting stroll away from the racket of the streets of Hanoi. A brochure is handed out
at the front desk and it covers the contents fairly comprehensively.Built in 1070 by
Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, this temple is one of the rare examples of traditional Vietnamese
architecture still standing. When constructed, the Temple of Liteature was dedicated to
the cult of Confucious, breaking the Buddhist monopoly on education. It initially catered
to the education of Mandarins and high ranking civil servants, and this was expanded in
theory to the education of outstanding non ranking students. The temple is now remembered
as the site of Vietnam’s first university.The temple contains five walled courtyards
connected to each other by doors. The first area of interest within the Temple of
Literature is the "Well of Heavenly Clarity" beside which there are 82 tortoise
carrying stellae, out of the original 117, which list the names, place of birth and
achievements of graduate students who accomplished exceptional results during the Le
Dynasty. Watch for the locals fishing in the Well of Heavenly Clarity. At the rear of the
gardens there is a large sanctuary possessing an impressive Confucian statue, and in the
forecourt of this sanctuary traditional music is played when a sufficient crowd gathers.
Army Museum
Along
Dien Bien Phu Street, towards Uncle Ho’s house, the Army Museum has a concise and
stimulating collection of war relics from throughout Vietnam’s long struggle for
liberation. The displays in regard to the Chinese, French and American aggression are
fascinating. The museum holds the tank that burst through the gates in Saigon during the
battle for liberation. There is also the usual assortment of military waste including a
Mig fighter, anti aircraft missiles, tanks, an impressive pile of wreckage from a US B52
bomber and a French prop driven plane that wer both shot down in the Hanoi area.Beside the
Army Museum there is a 59m high ancient flag tower that marks the tallest point in Hanoi
displaying the flag of the united Vietnam. From here, there are unbeatable panoramic views
of the city. Watch your head on the climb up though. The flag tower was once part of the
Hanoi Citadel built in 1812. Over time the citadel has been destroyed, partly by the
French in 1882, and almost completely by developers in 1897.
Water Puppetry
If
you want to gain only one piece of cultural background whilst in Vietnam, you may as well
make it the water puppets that can be seen in a number of Vietnamese cities, including
Hanoi. First class seats cost 40,000d and allow you to sit within the first five rows only
if you need a shower .
Hanoi Citadel
Just
to the west of the Old Quarter is the Hanoi Citadel, originally constructed by Emperor Gia
Long (ruled 1802-1819). Unfortunately, the Citadel is now a military base and also the
residence of high-ranking officers and their families - in other words, closed to the
public. Also, there is no longer much to see because it was mostly destroyed by French
troops in 1894 - US bombing took care of the rest.
Opera House
The
magnificent 900 seat Hanoi Opera House (Tel. 825 4312), which faces east up Pho Trang
Tien, was built in 1911 and recently saw the completion of apainstaking three year
renovation. It was from a balcony of this building that a Viet Minh-run committee of
citizens announced that it had taken overthe city on 16 August 1945. Periodic performances
are held here in the evenings. The theatre's Vietnamese name, Nha Hat Lon, appropriately
translates to 'House Sing Big'.
Maison Centrale
The
Hoa Lo Prison was given the name Hanoi Hilton by American prisoners of war held here
during the Vietnam War. According to the North Vietnamese, these soldiers were not covered
by the Geneva Convention regarding the treatment of war prisoners because America never
officially declared war on Vietnam. This infamous prison, was built by the French in the
early twentieth century and continued to be used as a prison up until fairly recently.
Saint Joseph Cathedral
This
Catholic cathedral was completed in 1887, by Monseigneur Pigneau de Behaine. It was closed
in 1975 upon reunification of Vietnam, and was not reopened until 1985. The neo-gothic
style of the cathedral looks somewhat out of place in the busy and typically Vietnamese
streets of Hanoi, although it is built in the French quarter of the city! If you happen to
be in Hanoi for Christmas, this is the place to visit. The courtyard of the church becomes
a huge gathering point and ltakes on a real carnival atmosphere, with fairy floss venders
and the like. The church itself has a striking making a quiet escape from the noisy Hanoi
streets.
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