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LUANG
PRABANG
Luang Prabang, by the banks of the Mekong, some 500
kilometres upriver from Vientiane and 200 metres above sea level, is Laos' oldest town
still in existence. For the most part of her history the town was the seat of kings. In
1562 King Setthathirat moved his government to Vientiane; but by then, Luang Prabang had
already been capital for some 800 years. True, the kingdoms ruled from Luang Prabang had
not been large for the first 600 years of her history. Only Prince Fa Ngoum made Luang
Prabang the capital of a kingdom of significant size. The small town (about 20,000
inhabitants today) is beautifully located at the foot of a high, rocky mountain - Mount
Phousi - by the banks of the Mekong river, and the town has a romantic atmosphere even
though most buildings are not very old (despite the town's history of many centuries). The
reason: surrounded by almost infinite forests the town's inhabitants always used as
building material what they had, in abundance, at their disposal: wood. In the course of
its long history the town had often been conquered and burnt down. The last time this
happened in the 80's of the 19th century at the hands of the Chinese. The town had also
been a frequent target of hostile visits by Thais and Vietnamese. After invasions, many
destroyed structures were rebuilt, some of them again and again, roughly the same as they
have existed before an invasion. Though physically no longer present, architecture dating
back many centuries shapes the town and contributes to Luang Prabang's unquestioned charm.
To this, the numerous Wats in and around the town provide a spiritual component.
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The
National Museum
Until the communist takeover in 1975 this building directly
opposite the town rock was the king's palace. The building itself is not very old. Its construction, consuming 20 years, was
begun only in 1904. But it contains spectacular objects of art. However, the museum's most
important piece of art can only be admired as a copy: a small Buddha statue by the name
Pra Bang. The name of the town derives from the name of that statue: Luang stands short
for Nakhon Luang . Luang Prabang may well be translated as Capital of Holy Bang. The
original statue is from 80 % gold. It is 82 centimetres high and weighs 50 kilograms.
Allegedly, it was made in Ceylon in the first century of Christian reckoning. In the 11th
century it was kept in Angkor until it was brought to Luang Prabang by the Laotian King Fa
Ngoum, after he had married a Khmer princess. When King Setthathirat made Vientiane the
capital of Laos, he took the statue there. In 1779 it was robbed by the Siamese, but was
returned in 1829. The statue is the most important holy object of Laotian Buddhism.
Mount
Phousi
Mount Phousi is right in middle of Luang Prabang. On top of the
mountain is Wat Chom Si, built in 1804. You have to climb 228 steps up Mount
Phousi, but if you're fit enough, the beautiful view from the top is worth the effort. In
the 18th century a number of other Wats were on the mountain.
Wat
Pra Bath Nua
This Wat features a 2 metres long "footprint" of the
Buddha. Such Buddha "footprints" are found in all Southeast Asian Buddhist
countries. Usually they are richly decorated ornaments with the approximate outline of a
footprint. They are supposed to express that the teachings of the Buddha have reached, and
are respected, here.
Wat
Xieng Thong
This royal Wat on the banks of the Mekong was built in 1559 during
the reign of King Setthathirat. It has survived, comparatively well, the various invasions
of mostly Chinese armies. Being a royal Wat it was well taken care of over the centuries.
The Wat is impressively decorated with carvings, murals and mosaics.
Wat Visoun
This Wat south of Mount Phousi is a replica of an older Wat, which
had been erected in the same place in 1512. Even though the replica has been built only in
1898, it does exude the atmosphere of a monastery of the middle ages. The Wat houses
numerous religious art treasures.
Wat That Luang
This Wat to the South of the town dates to the year 1818. Urns with
the ashes of kings and members of royal families are kept here. A golden Stupa reminds of
the last Laotian king, Sisavang Vong. As he had been very popular among the citizens, many
Laotian bring offerings.
The Pak-Ou Caves
These caves in the rocky walls of the sandstone mountains at the
confluence of the Ou river and the Mekong, some 25 kilometres upriver from Luang Prabang,
are the most important attraction out of town. The caves are inhabited by thousands of
Buddha statues, some allegedly more than 200 years old. Monks used to live in the caves,
too. When Laos was still a monarchy, the caves were visited every year by the king. A
small royal Wat is near the caves. The citizens of Luang Prabang believe that many
good-natured spirits have their homes in the caves. Thus they undertake short pilgrimages
there on special occasions, especially traditional New Year's Day. The best way to visit
the caves is by boat tour. The nature along the Mekong is absolutely beautiful, and a boat
tour to Pak Ou is likely to be the most commemorable excursion from Luang Prabang.
Ban Phanom
Ban Phanom is a wavers' village a few kilometres east of Luang
Prabang. Visitors have the opportunity to buy local cloth.
Khoung-Sy
Waterfall
The waterfall is about 20 kilometres from Luang Prabang, on a
Mekong tributary. In the surrounding area live a number of hill tribes.
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